Diy sim racing rig dimensions

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    Also something to measure is a must, other wise how are we suppose to know where to cut? Ok, we have it all now lets start! Measuring — 1 hour Measure twice, cut once. This is the most important advice and step of all the process. Any mistakes here will carry on throughout the whole procedure, so take your time measuring. Here are the original plans made by simul8r which includes the dimensions of the PVC pipes. I had them cut at the hardware store in half and then made a plan on which dimensions to cut per pipe.

    Try not to use the whole pipe for the pieces. Plan them so that a waste is left after cutting them all. I used a reciprocating saw. Not the ideal way of cutting it, but it did the job for me. A miter saw will definitely cut cutting time and make better cuts, but I would recommend going that way if you can borrow one or plan to get one for future use, unless you have money to spare, in which case, why not get a pre-built rig? Cut wood — 30 minutes Same procedure as PVC, only this time its wood.

    A circular saw will do the trick for this one. If you can have it cut at the hardware store, it will be easier. PVC assembly — 1 hour Time to see how things are going.

    Simply put all PVC together without any screws or glue. Essentially this should give you an idea of what to do, check any imperfections on the cuts, and have an idea of what to change or modify.

    Wood assembly — 30 minutes Same as PVC, only this time also use the brackets. Have a look as to what to change in order to meet your needs. Have a seat and check your view, hands position and feet position for the pedals. In my build, the pedal rake angle was too steep and the seat was too low for me. I fixed the pedal rake angle by mounting the wood for the pedals below the pipe instead of above. For the seat, I raised it by placing eight pieces of 2 x 4, two per corner and stacked.

    After assembly, all the hardware was in place. Now time for adjustments. Mounting — 2 hours Ok, not its time to permanently get everything in place. That way, if any imperfections were done during the PVC cutting, it will still hold the pipe and not shear from vibrations. If using glue, make sure to fit everything well because that glue, once it settles, there is no going back.

    Do the same for the wheel and pedals. If you have a shifter, use the diagonal pipe to mount it there. Screw the two pieces together to form an L and screw that to the board. All modifications are done. Time to do some testing. Testing — 20 to 40 hours Time to see if your rig has what it takes. You can skip this step if you want, but I advice you to have a go before doing the painting if painting is to be done. Check that everything holds up well, that the modifications done actually work and if any improvements must be done.

    I had a Logitech G27 later and also wanted to mount the keyboard below the wheel since now I have the shifter. My keyboard and mouse were sitting next to the wheel and was kinda uncomfortable.

    Added a pipe to the bottom of the wheel to mount the keyboard and the side of the rig I did a two step mount for the shifter and the mouse. Due to very cold weather where I lived, I had to postpone the painting until it was warm again.

    Because of that I put a considerable amount of time behind the rig and have worked around all the kinks. Six months passed and finally the weather got warmer, so time to… Part of my testing was compromised due to the cat using the rig as a bed. Gotta love my sleepyhead! Keyboard mounted to the bottom and the two step mount for the mouse and shifter on the right side of the rig. However, letting it dry and the smell of it to go away is a must.

    Remove all the boards and, optional, remove the pipes, if they were joined with screws. I left the pipes joined and painted it as a unit. Six months later, and now I can finish this.

    How you are going to paint the pipes is up to you. Remember to wear gloves and a mask before painting. I did a little sanding before painting, just in case. MDF board is another story. The MDF board is made essentially from sawdust, so it absorbs paint like a sponge. Ready to paint! Painting the underside. According to simul8r, this is his new chin-ups apparatus. After that just let the paint dry and reassemble. Have fun! Time to have fun! Update: since I moved everything to the side now I relocated the keyboard tray to the left side.

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    The idea started to come about after buying a Simxperience Accuforce direct drive wheel a few months ago which really began to highlight some long standing issues i was having with my very old and abused rSeat Evo rig, which had served me well for many a year but really needed replacing.

    So the search began for another sim rig from the main players in the field, but it soon brought up the old problem which i had when trying to find my last rig which is the size and layout of pre built rigs. You see i am the harry Potter of the sim racing world as my rig needs to fit within a cupboard under the stairs in the corner of my living room! This gives me a maximum size of cm x 90cm to play with which does not sound to bad but within that needs to go all the other things required to be a sim racer, such as a PC, monitor and other smaller peripherals which all eat into that space.

    Then I also had to take the price of some of these rigs into consideration and even though i had brought some fairly decent sim gear over the years a lot of it was second hand or brought using funds from selling other items so add cost to the lack of rigs that would be suitable size wise I put the plan on ice for a while.

    A little while later I was able to secure a selection of wooden roofing trusses and some MDF panelling for nothing and the rig build was back on, if it was type of material was going to be able to support a direct drive wheel and load cell pedals. I figured there was only one way to find out and that was to build it and see, all I was going to lose was a weekend of cutting and screwing so i thought it was worth taking a punt.

    The new sim rig, hopefully! I fitted the bucket seat mounts first and I used this as a minimum dimension guide which came out at 42cm. I did know i had a maximum of 50cm to play with so this influenced the next decision which was to set the seat within the wooden frame. The first cuts were then tentatively made and the basic wood frame was built giving me the outer size of the rig which was cm x 50cm. The next major point on the build. You see the wheel could not be mounted higher than 76cm other wise it would not slide under the stairs at the rear of the sim racing cupboard.

    On my old rig i had to modify the wheel base mounting plate so it hung under the rig arm rather than on the top so it fit. Now this meant i lost a lot of adjust-ability in height and angle and also meant i would pull down on the rig arm eventually leading to some small cracks to appear at the base of the arm.

    I knew that now I had the chance to build a custom rig I could make sure I could put this right this time round. I took the whole original rig mounting plate off and was going to use this on the new rig. So this meant I then knew the total height of the wheel and mount and could then work out what height the new rig frame would need to be to stay under the 76cm limit.

    The frame is 50cm high which then gave me a total height of 74cm allowing me to have a bit of room to adjust wheel angle for a more comfortable driving experience. The wheel deck frame as also made of timber that was twice the thickness of the rig frame to allow me to have a greater surface area to glue and screw it together with and would be less prone to twisting in the future.

    As you can see as an added precaution i fitted two brace sections to help make sure this section of the rig was as sturdy as possible. Some one call quick! I took a quick break to settle my nerves and regain my composure and the build resumed, phew! Now I had the seat and wheel position sorted it was time to deal with the pedals.

    I was not to sure at first how i was going to tackle this part of the rig build as I want to have an angle to my pedals but wanted to make sure I did not have the issue of flex i had with my old rig. So I originally I mounted them to the rig frame at the rear with a thinner section of wood as the front mount.

    But this was not great and I did not feel comfortable at all with them fitted in this position so time for a re think. I used the original rig as inspiration and build a pedal plate which would allow me to adjust pedal position until I found the ideal spot for me. This worked out to be a success and after some tweaking I have now found the ideal distance and angle for me and I am happy with that final part of the main rig build.

    I placed the MDF against the side of the rig and used the rig itself to make a template and then added some extra detail to help cover up some of the joins and simple shape. Its still fairly basic in design but I was ok with the way it turned out so I added some sections along the seat base to hide the wooden sections that it sat on and I think it now looked less hostile to the eye.

    The last piece of the puzzle was the shifter and how to fix that to the rig. Once again a bit of old kit came to the rescue in the form of an old rSeat shifter arm from an unknown rig from their now most likely discontinued range.

    The base of the mount just, and I do mean just, fitted in between the frame and the seat base. So I added an off cut of wood behind the MDF panel and drilled through and bolted this arm to the rig frame via this new hidden wood mounting point.

    I was glad this worked out ok and it certainly saved a lot of head scratching on how I was going to do this, it also shows the importance of never throwing odd things out as you never know when they might be used again! It was then time to double check rig would fit into cupboard before making a start on anything else with the build. Thankfully rig fitted ok and door could be closed behind it without any issues, which meant all my measuring had worked for once.

    As the rig has to slide in and out of the cupboard I went with a tried and tested method of gluing some off cuts from a carpet runner which makes it easy to not only pull the rig and out of the cupboard but it does not mark the wood floor either.

    Now I have got to this stage it was time to start testing the rig to see if it would actually hold up and work. So far I have fired up a selection of sims and done a few hours of racing and after checking and re checking to make sure nothing has come lose, cracked or split all seems ok and it seems to handle the forces from my sim gear without any flexing or twisting which i can tell you i am very relieved about.

    My first experiences with the rig have been very positive with the first thing I ended up doing is turning down the overall FFB value of my wheel down as I am now feeling a lot more of what a DD wheel has to offer now its held in place securely and my wife has noticed how much quieter my racing is now with no creaking or clunking sounds my old metal rig produced.

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    This guarantees it would strong enough to hold a very large man, let alone my small lb frame. Where are the positive arguments? Had I not had this system, the current state of the rig would be in a very large mess all over a shop floor, and with no sense of direction found anywhere.

    Thickness and size of your tubing will vary depending on your needs. So, back on topic, to start, my colleague and I began by cutting our lengths of tubing into four pieces each two feet long and with a 45 degree angle at each end.

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    This is very important as these four pieces will be welded together in a square to create the square base for the seat itself, and will be the starting point for every other add-on added later. Once these were welded into a 24 inch by 24 inch square and the welds were cleaned, a rather thick piece of steel yes, heavy, pig rig, steel was cut, much accidentally on the wrong machine to fit.

    Unknowingly, I received info that a machine was a steel sheer, one that could cut sheets of steel to size. Come to find out, it is a thin aluminum sheet press. Luckily enough, it did not damage anything.

    After this piece was added to the existing tubing square, the pan we had created weighed roughly 40 lbs. This alarmed me. I had wanted to keep weight to a minimum, but then I would be giving-up structural strength. To continue this one, I used the knowledge gained from installing several seats in race cars over the years to find my measurements for length. I place two 2x4s on the steel pan and sat on them, put my legs in a comfortable position and measured the length.

    This length came out to around another two feet. So I added another foot to bring it to three feet in order to keep more comfort for the different body builds of all the sim-racers who will be using the rig. Measure twice, cut once!

    A Guide to 8020 Sim Rigs: The Best Options Compared

    Two pipes were then cut to a length of three feet, and a third pipe cut to 18 inches to go in between them. Steering wheel modified with turn indication auto shut off the system with dashboard system.

    Designed and manufactured by Hyperdrive. Australia made realistic driving simulator cockpits, driving simulators and training simulators. The system above is using a Thrustmaster T We understand that most organizations work to budgets, that is why we offer so many design solutions. We also offer high-end steering systems wheel motors for professional use that range from k!! Our Experience staff can look after your customers, leaving your staff to get on with sales!

    thoughts on “Diy sim racing rig dimensions

    • 05.08.2021 at 14:46

      As the expert, I can assist. Together we can find the decision.

    • 14.08.2021 at 01:50

      The excellent answer, gallantly :)


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