Xp falcon restoration


  • 1965 XP FORD FALCON 2-DOOR HARDTOP
  • XM-XP FORD Coupe Rubber Kit
  • Classic Ford Restoration Specialists
  • 1965 XP Falcon
  • An XP Falcon, your friend in the shed
  • www.hotcars.com
  • 1965 XP FORD FALCON 2-DOOR HARDTOP

    Our fully equipped workshop in Inverell is where the magic happens. We regularly travel to Brisbane and Sydney and everywhere in between to provide expert advice and appraisals of classic Fords. In addition, our service includes vehicle transport back to our workshop. We understand that you do too.

    After weeks, months or even years of careful restoration and repair, we gain huge satisfaction knowing we have returned a classic Ford car to its former glory or made it even better. XA first appeared in and was an immediate hit. Larger, spacious inside and with lots of options, the Falcon took off.

    Next, the XB appeared in With the option of a grumbling V8, the sort-after X series continued through to the XC. Ford had an interesting range of options throughout its model run, which provide owners and restorers a huge scope to rebuild a car to original specifications, or to incorporate better braking and handling systems and higher performance engines.

    For simple general advice, or help to plan and oversee your next restoration, we are happy to help. Every project we take on is unique and requires its own custom plan to ensure we achieve the outcome you want, but as a general guide as to the process we follow to take your Classic Car from where it is when it drives into our workshop, to the restored masterpiece when it drives out, is as follows. We will discuss your project in detail, including levels of finish and estimated expense.

    A detailed plan will be presented to you, breaking the project down into easily managed steps and incremental payments. The vehicle will be dismantled and inspected and work commenced.

    In addition, a summary of the work will be provided to you each week, in order that you are fully informed of progress. The panels are then test fitted to the car to check for alignment and gapping and preparation commenced for the application of the final colour. Once the final paint has been applied, the final assembly process can begin. Next, our Trimming partners can also assist in the finishing of the interior of the car to your desired standard.

    Finally, we can provide a full engine and drivetrain restoration service. Ready to get your restoration on the move?

    XM-XP FORD Coupe Rubber Kit

    The manifolds to suit may be found locally, but overseas is sometimes the way to go. This can be done for a cost of dollars from somewhere like Hardy Spicer. I would recommend a brake upgrade to disc brakes on the front at least and a booster mounted remotely under the front guard. Having performed this conversion, I must say that there is plenty of torque coming from the motor and wheel spin is a problem. The car would be great solely as a burnout car. If you wanted a more pleasant daily driver use diff gears of less than as the original gears are much to short at 3.

    Another note on this from Honest John. Like I said check with an engineer BEFORE you get into a big pile of dough to fit a cheap engine, you may be better to find another or rebuild yours. How close is the front of the engine to the radiator? With no fan or fan spacer , I have about 25 mm or so.

    What happens if you drop the rear of the engine down , does that help the clearance?. Old fashioned steering columns kill! If you have seen the show on the Discovery channel you too will get a collapsible steering column, one can be used for later model Ford like the XE Falcon.

    This steering column can be matched to a XY steering box. To make it fit one of the mounting holes on the steering box has to be moved, by filling the old hole and drilling a new one. The pitman arm has also needs to be reset to the right angle to preserve the original steering characteristics. The steering knuckles on the spindles will matches up to the original steering knuckle position.

    No changes are needed to fit this. A bit of fiddling around is involved- swapping steering uni joints around, bending the mount to the firewall and getting the mount under the dash right, but overall not to hard and now it has fully adjustable steering and wipers, high beam, etc at your fingertips. Hope this helps. I also put in an XD wiring loom, making wiring connections a bit easier. This got a bit muddy in later engines that had small port heads and a 4 barrel carb!. The TC cortina 4 cyl auto bench seat model has a longer handle on the tbar with a slight bend back, a bit easier to reach with the bench seat, your challenge, finding one, most had buckets.

    Try earlybird spares at Thomastown, ask for Danny tell him I sent you, he knows early falcons, tell him what your up to, he may have something there. Spanner in the works John. I went down to the local wreckers a pulled a T-bar out of a TC.

    I still bought the T-bar. Only have 50mm between the top of the transmission and the hump in my floor, not much room to work in. I plan to try and bend up, cut and weld some sort of bracket to try and come out to the right and somehow try and get it to the shaft. Every Cortina I looked at had the shaft out the left. How can I sound proof the Falcon? To do this properly there are many layers to bring together the sound proofing similar to a modern car.

    The first layer is to stop the high frequency noise, this is proof-coat Stone-guard which goes on the underside of the car, and all over the wheel arches.

    The best for this is the professional tar-based, paint on. Then the same again on the inside of the car, under the carpet, then a layer of tar-based matting or a layer of weighted vinyl. On top of this goes the underfelt, which is either a horse hair or tri-fleck. Then on top goes the carpet proper. The same treatment is for the firewall with possibly the addition of fibreglass insulation.

    Lastly the under-bonnet insulation should be either put back in, or replaced as this keeps the noise down too. From what can be seen this is just simplicity, it is an easier fit for a small block Windsor to fit in engine bay without chopping the shock struts etc to show horn in a larger Windsor or Cleveland of other engine, you can make it fit, but gezzz it is tight, see here a Windsor.

    The Windsor small block and and older is a narrower width then the Cleveland or Windsor see the dimensions here. I had serious issues with the CRS kit. I have also heard reports that the stub axles can snap in a V8 conversion but I cannot confirm this. The reason for the spacer is to prevent supposedly the fouling of the rotor by moving it further out along the axle.

    The wheel bearing inside the rotor is pressed up hard against the spacer which in turn is pressed hard against the stub axle.

    With the number of engineers out there requiring the collapsible column for v8 conversions now there appears to be a market for this stuff. The RRS rack and pinion is a great conversion, fits , works great but costs, it was designed to do this job not adapted from something else. Honest John How can I drop the suspension of the Falcon easily?

    There are several options here, first from The Castlemaine Rodshop you can buy some drop axles for the front, or you can have others modified, including the common as muck HQ Holden spindles, these have to be modified, professionally but are a cheaper option, albeit not a easy.

    This also means you can have standard Holden HQ disc rotors and callipers fitted to these spindles. On the back you can have the springs reset at Lovell or AVO Shocks or many other places, this will give you about an inch.

    Or if you are really after a drop in the bum, you can have the spring eyelets reversed so that are below, not above the spring centre and this will give you about two inches. What about diff options for a Falcon? If you are getting one go for the early Compact 8in. Lastly there is the Centura diff that can be put in, this is right width and will take a small V8, also it shares the Ford bolt pattern, but it means moving the mount points for the suspension so it is a bit of work, as the Centura had a four-link setup and the Falcon leaves.

    There is also the option of the Ford Commercial diff which has five stud bolt patter, heavy duty axles, bearings and brakes, but only a 4. Disc brakes, how and why? Also the CRS have a conversion kit and go to a brake specialist as there is some machining to do — done, good feed back — after a hard installation. You Get more exotic, such as HQ discs after doing so more machining — rear and cheap if you have some mates in the game. When it comes time, pop it under the guard.

    As for the rear, get a diff with them already is the easy way, otherwise it is harder to get a kit and you are going to have to get some machining done. And actuation method and wheel cylinder diameter varies between all 4. Locked up brakes are no good to anybody!!! Thanks to Honest John. Putting in XF Stubs? There are a couple of options open to you. From memory, the tie rod bolts higher onto the stub axle instead of being horizontal.

    The suspension would also have to be lowered as the more the suspension travel, the greater the bump steer if any using the XF stubs. This was also the case with my original stup, the XW stub axles, only the bump steer was less.

    Horses for courses. The spindles will fit straight in, barring the tie rod ends. As to the booster bolt-up; you may need an XY or XW bracket under the dash, but only maybe. Quite possibly you can drill the four holes to mount, in a convenient fashion with your existing. High on my wishlist! How do you get the bastard window winders off? You can buy a removal tool from almost anywhere for a few dollars. See the copy of the page from the workshop manual covering handle removal. Is there a performance drop for running LPG verses petrol?

    So if the engine has the right internal, ie different rings etc as there is no petrol to wash away the oil, then you can get a compression without to much trouble — but….

    Now imaging if you had and a whole lot of forced induction! Share this:.

    Classic Ford Restoration Specialists

    How can I sound proof the Falcon? To do this properly there are many layers to bring together the sound proofing similar to a modern car. The first layer is to stop the high frequency noise, this is proof-coat Stone-guard which goes on the underside of the car, and all over the wheel arches. The best for this is the professional tar-based, paint on.

    1965 XP Falcon

    Then the same again on the inside of the car, under the carpet, then a layer of tar-based matting or a layer of weighted vinyl.

    On top of this goes the underfelt, which is either a horse hair or tri-fleck. Then on top goes the carpet proper. The same treatment is for the firewall with possibly the addition of fibreglass insulation. Lastly the under-bonnet insulation should be either put back in, or replaced as this keeps the noise down too.

    From what can be seen this is just simplicity, it is an easier fit for a small block Windsor to fit in engine bay without chopping the shock struts etc to show horn in a larger Windsor or Cleveland of other engine, you can make it fit, but gezzz it is tight, see here a Windsor. The Windsor small block and and older is a narrower width then the Cleveland or Windsor see the dimensions here. I had serious issues with the CRS kit.

    I have also heard reports that the stub axles can snap in a V8 conversion but I cannot confirm this. The reason for the spacer is to prevent supposedly the fouling of the rotor by moving it further out along the axle. The wheel bearing inside the rotor is pressed up hard against the spacer which in turn is pressed hard against the stub axle. With the number of engineers out there requiring the collapsible column for v8 conversions now there appears to be a market for this stuff.

    The RRS rack and pinion is a great conversion, fitsworks great but costs, it was designed to do this job not adapted from something else. Honest John How can I drop the suspension of the Falcon easily? There are several options here, first from The Castlemaine Rodshop you can buy some drop axles for the front, or you can have others modified, including the common as muck HQ Holden spindles, these have to be modified, professionally but are a cheaper option, albeit not a easy.

    This also means you can have standard Holden HQ disc rotors and callipers fitted to these spindles. On the back you can have the springs reset at Lovell or AVO Shocks or many other places, this will give you about an inch. Or if you are really after a drop in the bum, you can have the spring eyelets reversed so that are below, not above the spring centre and this will give you about two inches.

    What about diff options for a Falcon? If you are getting one go for the early Compact 8in. Lastly there is the Centura diff that can be put in, this is right width and will take a small V8, also it shares the Ford bolt pattern, but it means moving the mount points for the suspension so it is a bit of work, as the Centura had a four-link setup and the Falcon leaves.

    There is also the option of the Ford Commercial diff which has five stud bolt patter, heavy duty axles, bearings and brakes, but only a 4. Disc brakes, how and why? Also the CRS have a conversion kit and go to a brake specialist as there is some machining to do — done, good feed back — after a hard installation.

    You Get more exotic, such as HQ discs after doing so more machining — rear and cheap if you have some mates in the game. When it comes time, pop it under the guard.

    An XP Falcon, your friend in the shed

    As for the rear, get a diff with them already is the easy way, otherwise it is harder to get a kit and you are going to have to get some machining done. And actuation method and wheel cylinder diameter varies between all 4. Locked up brakes are no good to anybody!!! Thanks to Honest John. Putting in XF Stubs? There are a couple of options open to you.

    From memory, the tie rod bolts higher onto the stub axle instead of being horizontal. The suspension would also have to be lowered as the more the suspension travel, the greater the bump steer if any using the XF stubs.

    This was also the case with my original stup, the XW stub axles, only the bump steer was less. Horses for courses. It needed a bit of work and took him two-and-a-half-years to restore but it was immaculate.

    www.hotcars.com

    Then I found this one and I thought it was in pretty good shape. But then we started digging and found rust underneath, and in the sills and over the wheel arches and stuff like that — it got a little bit out of control. The car was stripped back to bare metal for some welding repair, the diff was changed with a pinion and crown wheel put in that had been salvaged from a sedan.

    The engine had a bit of piston-slap about it and was rebuilt too. Leo was able to do most of the work at his workshop, using the resources of his business, the skill and enthusiasm of his colleagues, plus his own vast experience. Back then, mechanics rebuilt everything — alternators, starter motors, engines, transmissions, diffs — we did it all.

    I then took it over to a painter who asked me what colour I wanted.


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